This week I have been in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, a city where
size matters. They have the biggest flag pole in the world (170m), the tallest
water fountain in the world (260m) and are currently constructing the tallest
building in the world, Jeddah Towers. At 1km high Jeddah Towers will be just
49cm taller than the current tallest building in the world (the Burj Khalifa in
Dubai). If you are going to spend $5bn then you really don’t want to be ‘the
second tallest’ so those extra few centimetres truly matter. We drove past the
construction site (see photo below). It doesn’t look overly impressive at first
glance but look closely and you get a sense of the scale; those tiny objects on
the side of the picture are massive cranes. See also attached the artists impression
of the final structure. Oh yes indeed. Jeddah is a city where size matters.
Towers in Aug 2016 Artists Impression of final Towers
We are about 10 miles from Mecca and, as luck would have it,
our trip coincided with the Hajj, the annual Muslim pilgrimage. It was suggested
that we could perhaps visit the holy site disguised in a burka. We sensibly
rejected this offer on cultural sensitivity grounds. Also my colleague,
Dutchman Erik Driessen, is 7 foot tall and likely to attract attention. Whilst
abandoning him to explain himself to the Saudi authorities would be mildly
amusing it would have created unpleasant amounts of paperwork.
If you head 60km south of Jeddah into the desert you will
come to an Industrial Zone. Between here and the Yemen border is 500 miles of
hot, unforgiving desert. This is where we have spent the week, undertaking a
technical audit of, yes you guessed it, the biggest soft drinks
facility in the world. It is run by a fantastically dedicated team from Sibco,
one of the largest Pepsi franchisees in the world, and it is, quite simply,
staggeringly enormous. The $0.5bn+ plant is going through commissioning but
when fully operational will consume over 500,000,000 litres of water every
hour. A giant sized lorry packed with 7Up, Pepsi, and all the other
delicious Pepsi brands will leave the site every 4 minutes (there is a
taxi-rank type car park for 100 such lorries). The sheer scale of it is
awe-inspiring. It knocks spots off the big flagpole, bigger fountain and
biggest building as a tourist attraction.
It is however ridiculously hot. Step outside the air
conditioned office and, literally within seconds, you are pouring with sweat.
After just 3 minutes you are soaked to the skin in your own perspiration. Our
days have involved spending a couple of blisteringly hot hours on-site,
returning to the safety of our temporary office to write up our
notes/re-hydrate/dry. We then repeat this until the day ends. Shirts dry
quite quickly but once your underpants are soaked through they tend to stay wet
all day long. Having constantly wet nether-regions is a special feeling I have
not encountered for perhaps 45 years.
Some water issues are common the world over (leakage, energy
control, sludge). Some are region specific (unusually high manganese levels in
the Red Sea feed water, climatic conditions which cause rapid corrosion of all
metal components). Everyone we have met, from the local desalination operators
Sawaco to all Sibco staff/subcontractors has welcomed us and is working
tirelessly to get the facility up and running on time. After all, there are
28 million thirsty Saudi’s out there and they need their Pepsi.
Above the urinals is a little sign with colour chart for you
to compare with your urine. It ranges from light yellow (‘good’) to dark
yellow (‘drink more’) to green (‘drink more now’)
to red (‘Something is seriously wrong. Find a hospital and find a
psychiatrist’). No matter how much I drink I can’t seem to shift from light
green. I feel (and no doubt look) like a shrivelled prune. Yet our main client
contact, Duncan Munro, has been here almost 3 years and looks suspiciously
younger than he did when he worked in London for Fullers Brewery.
Perhaps it’s a Soft drink vs Beer thing? Perhaps it is due
to the sunshine? I hope not, either way I am in trouble. Next week I am on
holiday in Southwold, UK. I intend to spend the week enjoying the balmy 20
degree C temperatures, sitting on the painful gravel beach next to the
deliciously grey and cold North Sea drinking copious amount of the local Adnams
ale. It is a classic Englishman’s holiday. I might not end the week looking any
younger but my urine will at least be back to normal.
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